I bet you thought I'd never write my wrap-up of this Zimbabwe journal. Luckily, I made it home in one piece without major back or neck problems from being shoe-horned into economy class. The flight back was more uncomfortable than the flight over, partially because I was ready to get home. The 25 hours was quite long, and I only dozed for about 2 of them. The rest of the time, I watched movies on the personal screens that were at everyone's seat.
The people around me were more talkative than when I came over to Zimbabwe. The girl next to me was an American who just made the decision to move to Jo'burg to be with her trauma surgeon boyfriend. She's giving up everything to move over there and be with him. She's going to try it for six months and see if she can do it permanently. I can't imagine doing that, not even for Richard. To permanently give up living in my home country? I love my country too much to do that, especially in Africa. Now, if you're talking Europe, that could be discussed. She had even been robbed at knife point the day before, and she still wanted to come back to Jo'burg. For her sake, I hope it works out. This girl had also been on a Concorde that almost crashed, so she was heavily drugged for the flight back to Atlanta. She slept much of the way, for which I am jealous.
When we finally touched down in Atlanta, it took an hour to get through customs. I am grateful that I could be in the American line, because the non-American line was three times as long. I finally made it to the baggage claim and picked up my bags intact. I didn't have to look hard to find Pat and David waiting for me. They drove me home, gave me my keys and phone, and dropped me off.
I called my mom and grandma first. Richard had called while I was in the truck with Pat and David, so he knew I was home already. The conversations were short, b/c they knew I wanted to get to sleep. That's exactly what I did too...sleep until Richard came home. I did get up around lunch time for some food, but otherwise, I was zonked out.
The transition home has been pretty easy. It was like I'd never left, which was strange. I enjoyed having a hot, long shower, a toilet that worked, and air conditioning. Jackson seemed bigger to me than before I left, but he and Emma were fantastic. Emma's bald spot is now gone thanks to the melatonin treatment she started in July! I was a little disoriented in my car the first trip or two, as I'd gotten used to the English way of driving in Harare (i.e. on the "wrong" side of the road).
Work hasn't been bad. Apparently, the reviews of my time there have been very good, so everyone is quite pleased. I may even get a bonus out of it. Leo has approved my vacation in December to go to Hawaii with Richard, so that trip is now set. I'll have plenty to work on here while Leo is in and out on leave throughout September.
I'm glad I went to Africa, but it sure is good to be home.
Wednesday, September 1, 2004
Thursday, August 19, 2004
Time for Farewells
Wednesday - August 18, 2004
This will be my last journal entry before returning home to the United States. I leave on Friday, so I won't be in the office to post anything for Thursday. It promises to be quiet. Casey is taking me to lunch, we're going to have a final meeting to wrap up any questions on what I did with the various finance records, and I will try to find a bottle of Amarula before going back to the cottage to finish packing. I'll likely spend time with Pet and her family, hopefully getting some pictures. I imagine I'll pay my final bill too. Then it will be off to bed and having a leisurely morning before I head to the airport at 10:30am.
Today was rather slow. The internet died midmorning, and I thought I was doomed in my quest to upload and post my pictures from Victoria Falls. Luckily, the connection came back after lunch, so I was able to finish my project, a link to which was provided in this journal yesterday. I had about 150 pictures to upload from my weekend away, and although the computer didn't post them in order, I had enough captions that people seem to be able to follow. The comments I've received have been good. Richard even said that I looked like I had lost weight! I think that may be true, but I still want to lose more.
The measles partnership call was rather bland. I got to sit in on it, but they argued a lot about the distribution of treated bed nets to help fight malaria. Some places are experimenting with combining the distribution of bed nets with measles campaigns. I kind of zoned out most of the time. I answered emails, read newspapers online, and generally waited for quitting time.
I went to Yinka's at 6pm for my farewell dinner. It was kind of a farewell/welcome back dinner in honor of Casey and me. It was nice. They had different sorts of dishes. I especially enjoyed the peanut butter noodles that Amy made! We finished dinner with a dessert of brownies. We also watched some of the Olympics, shared pictures from our various travels this summer (or winter, here), and took pictures. I did get pictures of me with Trent, Amy, and Anne Marie which I will post when I get home. I also have pictures of Yinka and Everard. I will get pictures of my WHO offices as well, and hopefully Pet, Morris, and Kirk. I got a sweet picture of Sasha, the big Mastiff that reminded me so much of my boxer babies at home. I finally got a good picture of Smiley too!
I went to sleep after the dinner, and woke up to Richard's phone call. He called pretty late, but I knew he would. I'm so glad that I will get to see him in a few days. It's been a long time, but we've kept in touch so well that it hasn't been as bad as I feared. It will still be good to finally get home to him.
With that, my round of good-byes has completed. I will miss the friends I've made here, but I plan to keep in touch. These guys are globe trotters, so I imagine they will be good at emailing. Hopefully we will run into one another again.
This will be my last journal entry before returning home to the United States. I leave on Friday, so I won't be in the office to post anything for Thursday. It promises to be quiet. Casey is taking me to lunch, we're going to have a final meeting to wrap up any questions on what I did with the various finance records, and I will try to find a bottle of Amarula before going back to the cottage to finish packing. I'll likely spend time with Pet and her family, hopefully getting some pictures. I imagine I'll pay my final bill too. Then it will be off to bed and having a leisurely morning before I head to the airport at 10:30am.
Today was rather slow. The internet died midmorning, and I thought I was doomed in my quest to upload and post my pictures from Victoria Falls. Luckily, the connection came back after lunch, so I was able to finish my project, a link to which was provided in this journal yesterday. I had about 150 pictures to upload from my weekend away, and although the computer didn't post them in order, I had enough captions that people seem to be able to follow. The comments I've received have been good. Richard even said that I looked like I had lost weight! I think that may be true, but I still want to lose more.
The measles partnership call was rather bland. I got to sit in on it, but they argued a lot about the distribution of treated bed nets to help fight malaria. Some places are experimenting with combining the distribution of bed nets with measles campaigns. I kind of zoned out most of the time. I answered emails, read newspapers online, and generally waited for quitting time.
I went to Yinka's at 6pm for my farewell dinner. It was kind of a farewell/welcome back dinner in honor of Casey and me. It was nice. They had different sorts of dishes. I especially enjoyed the peanut butter noodles that Amy made! We finished dinner with a dessert of brownies. We also watched some of the Olympics, shared pictures from our various travels this summer (or winter, here), and took pictures. I did get pictures of me with Trent, Amy, and Anne Marie which I will post when I get home. I also have pictures of Yinka and Everard. I will get pictures of my WHO offices as well, and hopefully Pet, Morris, and Kirk. I got a sweet picture of Sasha, the big Mastiff that reminded me so much of my boxer babies at home. I finally got a good picture of Smiley too!
I went to sleep after the dinner, and woke up to Richard's phone call. He called pretty late, but I knew he would. I'm so glad that I will get to see him in a few days. It's been a long time, but we've kept in touch so well that it hasn't been as bad as I feared. It will still be good to finally get home to him.
With that, my round of good-byes has completed. I will miss the friends I've made here, but I plan to keep in touch. These guys are globe trotters, so I imagine they will be good at emailing. Hopefully we will run into one another again.
Wednesday, August 18, 2004
Time's Growing Short
Tuesday – August 17, 2004
My disengagement from the work at WHO grows. Casey had a few questions today, and she wasn’t happy when she discovered we sent money to Ethiopia for routine immunization activities. However, on her handover notes to me, nothing was mentioned about not giving another dime to Ethiopia. It appears the country is hording its money and not submitting receipts. That increases suspicion that the money is being used for other purposes, but I had no idea, and apparently neither did Robert. It’s most likely that Robert forgot though.
Otherwise, it was kind of a slow day of email and a long lunch. We all went to Sitar, the Indian restaurant near here, and had a good lunch. Even though we were the only ones in the place, the service was still incredibly slow. Still, the food was excellent, especially the mince meat with peas concoction. I tried to find some Amarula at the TM grocery at the shopping center, but they didn’t have any. I think I may have to go to that fancy Spar in the Fife Ave Shops downtown to get it. Their liquor collection was pretty large, so they should have Amarula. I simply must bring a bottle home because that stuff is good!
Tonight was the dinner with Paola. It wasn’t nearly as big of a deal as I had feared, especially when I knew it was just me. Apparently, she just wanted to cook me dinner because she thinks that I’m a cool guy. She made a steak dinner with some great sauce and broccoli. We then watched the Olympics for a while, cheering on Zimbabwe’s female swimmer who won her 2nd medal last night, a bronze, in the 200m medley. The paper here is all ga-ga over this girl, despite the fact she’s a blond haired, blue eyed white girl. I suppose going 24 years without a single Zimbabwean medal has made them not so picky. Still, it’s surprising to see Mugabe’s press hail a white girl as a national hero for winning in the Olympics. The 2nd exciting race we was the 4x200m medley relay race which the USA won by a fingertip. It was quite thrilling up to the end. Ian Thorpe (aka “The Thorpedo”) almost pulled out an Australian victory. That guy is an amazing swimmer, and I wish he was one of our guys!
After Eddie brought me home, I mostly relaxed. I could have packed more, but I didn’t need to rush things. I did transfer my Victoria Falls pictures from my laptop to the USB memory port that Casey has loaned me. That thing is awesome. It gives you all kinds of storage while being small and easy to use and transport. I must ask Leo to buy me one when I return. I think we have them in supply with the IT team. I can now use that USB storage device to transfer the pictures to the web tomorrow. I watched the women’s gymnastic competition where the US women won silver, being edged out by the Romanian team. I thought the judges were a little biased against the Americans with some of the scores, but overall, I think the Romanian team is deserving of its gold. I then read a little and went to sleep.
My disengagement from the work at WHO grows. Casey had a few questions today, and she wasn’t happy when she discovered we sent money to Ethiopia for routine immunization activities. However, on her handover notes to me, nothing was mentioned about not giving another dime to Ethiopia. It appears the country is hording its money and not submitting receipts. That increases suspicion that the money is being used for other purposes, but I had no idea, and apparently neither did Robert. It’s most likely that Robert forgot though.
Otherwise, it was kind of a slow day of email and a long lunch. We all went to Sitar, the Indian restaurant near here, and had a good lunch. Even though we were the only ones in the place, the service was still incredibly slow. Still, the food was excellent, especially the mince meat with peas concoction. I tried to find some Amarula at the TM grocery at the shopping center, but they didn’t have any. I think I may have to go to that fancy Spar in the Fife Ave Shops downtown to get it. Their liquor collection was pretty large, so they should have Amarula. I simply must bring a bottle home because that stuff is good!
Tonight was the dinner with Paola. It wasn’t nearly as big of a deal as I had feared, especially when I knew it was just me. Apparently, she just wanted to cook me dinner because she thinks that I’m a cool guy. She made a steak dinner with some great sauce and broccoli. We then watched the Olympics for a while, cheering on Zimbabwe’s female swimmer who won her 2nd medal last night, a bronze, in the 200m medley. The paper here is all ga-ga over this girl, despite the fact she’s a blond haired, blue eyed white girl. I suppose going 24 years without a single Zimbabwean medal has made them not so picky. Still, it’s surprising to see Mugabe’s press hail a white girl as a national hero for winning in the Olympics. The 2nd exciting race we was the 4x200m medley relay race which the USA won by a fingertip. It was quite thrilling up to the end. Ian Thorpe (aka “The Thorpedo”) almost pulled out an Australian victory. That guy is an amazing swimmer, and I wish he was one of our guys!
After Eddie brought me home, I mostly relaxed. I could have packed more, but I didn’t need to rush things. I did transfer my Victoria Falls pictures from my laptop to the USB memory port that Casey has loaned me. That thing is awesome. It gives you all kinds of storage while being small and easy to use and transport. I must ask Leo to buy me one when I return. I think we have them in supply with the IT team. I can now use that USB storage device to transfer the pictures to the web tomorrow. I watched the women’s gymnastic competition where the US women won silver, being edged out by the Romanian team. I thought the judges were a little biased against the Americans with some of the scores, but overall, I think the Romanian team is deserving of its gold. I then read a little and went to sleep.
Casey's Return
Monday – August 16, 2004
Casey’s back, and the transition seems smooth. I’m sure I’ve made mistakes along the way that she will have to clean up, but she’s up for the task. I handed over her office keys, which I had forgotten to leave with Yinka. I told her my network password so that she could go through my email files, and I showed her the things I had done. Other than that, Casey took it from there, and I was left to surf the Internet. I had plenty of messages from the weekend, so it wasn’t bad. I’m working at the station of the silent data manager guy who is on contract break himself until 24 August.
I forgot to bring a towel, so I couldn’t go to the gym. I don’t think I’ll go anymore. There was an accident at the gym last weekend where someone nearly had his back broken after a locally built piece of equipment fell on him. I’m about to go anyway, and I don’t need to run up my driver bill. After all, Eddie charges $200,000 Zim to drive me one way to the airport.
I hung out with Kirk some when I got home before I went back to the cottage and found that the shower worked. After taking a nice shower, I made some soup for dinner. I need to finish off as much of my food as possible, but whatever I don’t eat, I’ll just leave. I spent the rest of the night packing clothes that I won’t wear this week, watching movies, and finally the Olympics. It was exciting to watch the Olympics live, especially the men’s gymnastics team, which won silver. Then Richard called, and we had a good talk about my coming home and just what’s going on at his school. Apparently, some teacher in the Spanish department is spreading gossip about Richard and myself, and also telling dirt on her department head, saying he sexually harassed another male teacher in the past. Richard had to complain to the principal. It’s none of the kids’ business what goes on in a teacher’s personal life, and it’s certainly should not be fodder for idle gossip between teacher and student.
Casey’s back, and the transition seems smooth. I’m sure I’ve made mistakes along the way that she will have to clean up, but she’s up for the task. I handed over her office keys, which I had forgotten to leave with Yinka. I told her my network password so that she could go through my email files, and I showed her the things I had done. Other than that, Casey took it from there, and I was left to surf the Internet. I had plenty of messages from the weekend, so it wasn’t bad. I’m working at the station of the silent data manager guy who is on contract break himself until 24 August.
I forgot to bring a towel, so I couldn’t go to the gym. I don’t think I’ll go anymore. There was an accident at the gym last weekend where someone nearly had his back broken after a locally built piece of equipment fell on him. I’m about to go anyway, and I don’t need to run up my driver bill. After all, Eddie charges $200,000 Zim to drive me one way to the airport.
I hung out with Kirk some when I got home before I went back to the cottage and found that the shower worked. After taking a nice shower, I made some soup for dinner. I need to finish off as much of my food as possible, but whatever I don’t eat, I’ll just leave. I spent the rest of the night packing clothes that I won’t wear this week, watching movies, and finally the Olympics. It was exciting to watch the Olympics live, especially the men’s gymnastics team, which won silver. Then Richard called, and we had a good talk about my coming home and just what’s going on at his school. Apparently, some teacher in the Spanish department is spreading gossip about Richard and myself, and also telling dirt on her department head, saying he sexually harassed another male teacher in the past. Richard had to complain to the principal. It’s none of the kids’ business what goes on in a teacher’s personal life, and it’s certainly should not be fodder for idle gossip between teacher and student.
Tuesday, August 17, 2004
Victoria Falls Weekend!
Thursday – August 12, 2004
My last full day of work before going off to Victoria Falls! The day went kind of slow, mostly because I just wanted it to hurry up and end. I managed to pass out all the books I was giving away since I’ve read them already. I got everything in order, set my away message, and went home to pack. I only carried enough to last me the weekend, with just a couple of outfits. I want to be prepared for anything I might be inclined to buy. Eddie is coming in the morning around 7am, so I have to be up and eating breakfast by 6:30am. That’s the only down side I see right now. :)
I had to go directly after work to get tickets for Harry Potter, since the latest movie just opened here. Anne Marie, Yinka, and the family of a girlfriend of one of the Marine’s joined us. I wolfed down some dinner at St. Elmo’s before the movie started, and we had a nice time. I appreciated more of the subtle points in the film the 2nd time around. After dinner, Yinka, Anne Marie, and myself went back to St. Elmo’s so they could eat. I only had a salad at that point. Anne Marie took me home.
Friday, August 13, 2004 – Sunday, August 15, 2004
I got up early, but I wasn’t too difficult. Breakfast was ready at 6:30am and Eddie was on time at 7am. He said that he’d wait to be paid until after I got back on Sunday, which was fine with me, but it did make me wonder if he didn’t want me to have sticker shock for the price he would charge me to go to the airport. It is on the other side of town, far from where I’m located. Probably 20 miles, I’d bet.
Going into the airport, we had to veer away from the newer terminal used for international flights. Domestic flights take off in this converted hangar that had next to no security. They do screen luggage when you come in the door, but after that, they don’t do anything. I was flying first class on the way to Vic Falls since that was the only seat available. They had been able to get me an economy seat on the way back to Harare, which netted me $50 US. With the $710,000 Zim that I got changing out $100 US on Thursday, I was set.
Thankfully, Yinka had brought a couple of books she had finished, so I had something to read. It was A Place Called Freedom by Ken Follett, and it takes place in pre-revolutionary Britain and America. Interesting reading, that’s for sure. It definitely kept me from being bored out of my mind.
The planes for Air Zimbabwe were not bad. They were older, but not any older than some US jets. First class was comfortable and spacious and it was nice to be waited on. I had some juice when I first sat down, and I also got a drink and a sandwich during the flight. First, we had to go to Bulawayo and then went on to Victoria Falls. Once we landed at Victoria Falls Airport, our luggage was unceremoniously unloaded and dumped in an open warehouse door that served as the luggage area. I then found the group (United Touring Company) that I had the ride with to my B&B and boarded the bus.
I sat in the front seat and listened to the driver tell me some facts about Victoria Falls, pointing out villages and whatnot as we drove toward the town. I was the last one dropped off, since I was also the only one staying in a B&B. Amadeus B&B is nice, but it’s a bit out of town for my taste. If I could have afforded to spend the cash, I would have preferred staying at the Kingdom resort or even at the Victoria Falls Hotel, which is 100 years old. Amadeus is a nice house that has been converted into a B&B. There is the main house, and then wings have been built for guest rooms. It has a gorgeous pool, and a nice eating area where you have breakfast each morning. My room was right on the pool, and had a nice, new ceiling fan. The toilet and shower worked beautifully. The B&B’s website is at www.amadeusgarden.com.
When I arrived, I decided to jump into the pool since it was so warm, and the pool looked so inviting. That was a mistake. The pool was ice cold! I managed to swim my way to the shallow end and get out. I had to spray myself with bug spray since the flies and stuff almost immediately descended. The spray worked wonders. I relaxed and read my book until it was time to get ready for the game drive. I showered under intense water pressure which thrilled me to no end.
The game drive was pretty cool. We saw a herd of elephants and watched them destroy trees for food. I had no idea that elephants destroyed so much land in their wake, or that 2/3 of they eat passes through their system undigested. Baboons, in fact, pick through elephant dung looking for food to eat. I can’t imagine anything more nasty. I saw tons of water buck (male and female) along with baboons. I also saw some vultures that were apparently waiting for a predator to finish his meal or for another animal to die. Since it’s the dry season, all the vegetation is pretty much brown and dead.
I went to the Boma (Eating Place in the native tongue) for dinner. Everyone said I had to try it. It was this wild game restaurant that served buffet style. The owner of Amadeus Garden said I was should walk since it was close. Well, the map wasn’t matching what the streets did, and it was after dark with NO street lights. I tried walking, and quickly discovered I couldn’t see anything and had to go back and take a cab. I don’t know what that man was smoking when he had me try to walk! The Boma started me off with a drink of the native beer, which was clear and tasted like vinegar with a dash of rubbing alcohol thrown in. Then you ate. I tried ostrich (not bad, much like sirloin steak), kudu steak (stingy and tough), and warthog. Let me tell you, warthogs might be ugly, but they sure are tasty! It was as tender as filet mignon and had a taste that a cross between a filet and chicken. I also tried the peanut butter rice, and I got a certificate for eating a fried worm which is a delicacy here. It was crunchy, but otherwise OK. Reminded me a little bit of escargot, but with a unique enough flavor to be different. After the Boma, I was stuffed, and was glad to get home.
The next morning, I had a typical breakfast of cereal, juice, coffee, eggs, and ham. We then went on the walking tour of the falls. Now is the time for me to talk about the Egyptians. For every activity, and on both my flights to and from Victoria Falls, there was a couple who I found out were from Egypt. I knew she was Muslim from the head scarf, and I figured the husband was some Middle Eastern businessman. Turns out he’s the trade attaché for Egypt to Zimbabwe. I wasn’t aware that Muslim wives were allowed to henpeck their husbands the way this lady henpecked her husband. She complained about everything. She didn’t want to walk far, she didn’t want to get wet, she didn’t like to wait, etc. One of the ubiquitous street vendors tried to sell her something for $80,000 Zim, and she laughed in his face and said, “I give only $10,000!” The guy backed down to $30K, and for a carving, that wasn’t a bad price. But she wouldn’t budge off the $10K offer, which is only $1.50 US. Then, at the falls (which are 2km wide), she refused to rent a rain coat for the mist. Well, the wind shifted, and she got all upset that the falls was making her get wet! I couldn’t believe it. I just wanted to ask what she expected visiting one of the largest WATERfalls in the world?!? The kicker was the sunset cruise where she apparently didn’t like the boat. It was a catamaran, which you would expect for a casual dinner cruise on the Zambezi River. I suppose she thought she would be aboard the Queen Mary II. She refused to get on, and her husband was ready to leave her ashore and make her wait for him. Just before the boat took off, she almost burst into tears and decided to board the ship. We applauded her courage. She and her husband also wanted an alligator skin. They thought someone would just shoot one in the river for them, I suppose. I don’t know if they ever got their skin. They certainly were memorable. The Egyptian guy, too, was whiter than I am. I found that to be funny to see a Middle Eastern guy from Egypt to be so light skinned. That’s what I get for having assumptions!
The falls were fantastic. I really do not have the proper words to describe them. They are huge and seem to go on forever when you are standing at one end. Any of the individual falls that make up Victoria Falls as a whole would be breathtaking. Together, they are simply amazing. I truly understand why people harped on me to go here before I left Zimbabwe, and why Vic Falls is one of the natural wonders of the world. I am so glad I got to see them. Once I am able to upload my pictures, hopefully you can get a glimpse of the majesty that is Victoria Falls. I’m afraid my camera, even with over 150 pictures taken, cannot quite capture it.
I also watched some fool bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge that links Zimbabwe with Zambia. I can’t imagine doing that, with my fear of freefalling. I would be paralyzed with fear; someone would have to go with me or push me. After the falls, we went to the “living village” which was nothing short of cheesy. It was not nearly as authentic as I hoped, and the guide who worked there rushed us through and then brazenly demanded tips like a beggar on the street. No sense of discretion AT ALL. I could have done without that tour, although seeing examples of native huts was interesting.
I convinced the tour driver to let me off at the Kingdom Lodge, where the Egyptians were staying, so I could explore downtown Victoria Falls. It was a cute tourist town, like any other you’d see in the world. I went through the 100 year old Victoria Falls Hotel which was fantastic. It certainly deserves its 4 stars, and I imagine is not far from a 5th one. It has an elegance that reminded me of many find resorts found in the US, especially in tropical areas. If I ever return here, I will definitely make plans to stay at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Failing that, I will stay at the Kingdom lodge, which is cute in a sort of African themed, Las Vegas way. I did manage to find another book to buy (although I later discovered the book I bought was not the one listed on the jacket cover!) and a T-shirt. I would have gotten my mom a T-shirt, but the only one I liked for her was $150,000 Zim, or about $25US. No way was I paying that!
The sunset cruise, or booze cruise, was nice. It was very peaceful sailing along the Zambezi River above the falls. I found out that the Zambezi is the 4th longest river in Africa. It comes after the Nile, Niger, and Congo rivers in length. We saw some hippos and an alligator. There was a nice gay couple from Athens who had fled the Olympics by going on a Southern Africa tour. Victoria Falls was their first stop. They were very funny, and it was nice to talk to “family”. The irony was especially thick when the Egyptians had the gay couple take pictures of them. It made me think about this guy would probably support imprisonment or death for these men for being gay, but had no qualms about asking their help. I think I polished off a bottle of Zimbabwean red wine (had no idea Zimbabwe had any vineyards!) on my own. It was very good, much like a merlot but without the typical bitter aftertaste of red wines. The sunset was perfect too. I think I captured it pretty well on my camera, as the sun slowly slid below the horizon in a red blaze of glory. It just what you’d expect an African sunset to be.
I went home and just went to sleep. I slept the whole night and got up in the morning for breakfast and to pack. The bus to take me to the airport was late by about 30 minutes. I was getting very nervous that they had forgotten me and that I’d miss my flight when they finally arrived. Again, there was little security at the airport, and I sat in coach. This woman next to me had her 7 year old sitting in her lap, which I could not believe the airlines allowed. That child needed his own seat. I talked with a Danish guy on the other side of me for part of the trip, and he was interesting. I exited from a different terminal than the one I had come into on Friday. This was a new terminal designed for domestic flights. I don’t think it was finished yet, which is why they still use the old hangar. I had to wait 20 minutes past 1pm for Eddie to arrive. He got me home though, and I was glad of it. I got to talk to Mom for a while on the phone when she called, and she wanted to come visit me next Sunday after I just got home. I nixed that idea. Last thing I’ll want next weekend is company.
Pet upgraded the TV satellite service, so I can switch channels on my own without regard to what they are watching. That was nice. They also put up new shower bars to hold towels and washcloths. Nice touch. Now if they just will get a new toilet that flushes properly!
My last full day of work before going off to Victoria Falls! The day went kind of slow, mostly because I just wanted it to hurry up and end. I managed to pass out all the books I was giving away since I’ve read them already. I got everything in order, set my away message, and went home to pack. I only carried enough to last me the weekend, with just a couple of outfits. I want to be prepared for anything I might be inclined to buy. Eddie is coming in the morning around 7am, so I have to be up and eating breakfast by 6:30am. That’s the only down side I see right now. :)
I had to go directly after work to get tickets for Harry Potter, since the latest movie just opened here. Anne Marie, Yinka, and the family of a girlfriend of one of the Marine’s joined us. I wolfed down some dinner at St. Elmo’s before the movie started, and we had a nice time. I appreciated more of the subtle points in the film the 2nd time around. After dinner, Yinka, Anne Marie, and myself went back to St. Elmo’s so they could eat. I only had a salad at that point. Anne Marie took me home.
Friday, August 13, 2004 – Sunday, August 15, 2004
I got up early, but I wasn’t too difficult. Breakfast was ready at 6:30am and Eddie was on time at 7am. He said that he’d wait to be paid until after I got back on Sunday, which was fine with me, but it did make me wonder if he didn’t want me to have sticker shock for the price he would charge me to go to the airport. It is on the other side of town, far from where I’m located. Probably 20 miles, I’d bet.
Going into the airport, we had to veer away from the newer terminal used for international flights. Domestic flights take off in this converted hangar that had next to no security. They do screen luggage when you come in the door, but after that, they don’t do anything. I was flying first class on the way to Vic Falls since that was the only seat available. They had been able to get me an economy seat on the way back to Harare, which netted me $50 US. With the $710,000 Zim that I got changing out $100 US on Thursday, I was set.
Thankfully, Yinka had brought a couple of books she had finished, so I had something to read. It was A Place Called Freedom by Ken Follett, and it takes place in pre-revolutionary Britain and America. Interesting reading, that’s for sure. It definitely kept me from being bored out of my mind.
The planes for Air Zimbabwe were not bad. They were older, but not any older than some US jets. First class was comfortable and spacious and it was nice to be waited on. I had some juice when I first sat down, and I also got a drink and a sandwich during the flight. First, we had to go to Bulawayo and then went on to Victoria Falls. Once we landed at Victoria Falls Airport, our luggage was unceremoniously unloaded and dumped in an open warehouse door that served as the luggage area. I then found the group (United Touring Company) that I had the ride with to my B&B and boarded the bus.
I sat in the front seat and listened to the driver tell me some facts about Victoria Falls, pointing out villages and whatnot as we drove toward the town. I was the last one dropped off, since I was also the only one staying in a B&B. Amadeus B&B is nice, but it’s a bit out of town for my taste. If I could have afforded to spend the cash, I would have preferred staying at the Kingdom resort or even at the Victoria Falls Hotel, which is 100 years old. Amadeus is a nice house that has been converted into a B&B. There is the main house, and then wings have been built for guest rooms. It has a gorgeous pool, and a nice eating area where you have breakfast each morning. My room was right on the pool, and had a nice, new ceiling fan. The toilet and shower worked beautifully. The B&B’s website is at www.amadeusgarden.com.
When I arrived, I decided to jump into the pool since it was so warm, and the pool looked so inviting. That was a mistake. The pool was ice cold! I managed to swim my way to the shallow end and get out. I had to spray myself with bug spray since the flies and stuff almost immediately descended. The spray worked wonders. I relaxed and read my book until it was time to get ready for the game drive. I showered under intense water pressure which thrilled me to no end.
The game drive was pretty cool. We saw a herd of elephants and watched them destroy trees for food. I had no idea that elephants destroyed so much land in their wake, or that 2/3 of they eat passes through their system undigested. Baboons, in fact, pick through elephant dung looking for food to eat. I can’t imagine anything more nasty. I saw tons of water buck (male and female) along with baboons. I also saw some vultures that were apparently waiting for a predator to finish his meal or for another animal to die. Since it’s the dry season, all the vegetation is pretty much brown and dead.
I went to the Boma (Eating Place in the native tongue) for dinner. Everyone said I had to try it. It was this wild game restaurant that served buffet style. The owner of Amadeus Garden said I was should walk since it was close. Well, the map wasn’t matching what the streets did, and it was after dark with NO street lights. I tried walking, and quickly discovered I couldn’t see anything and had to go back and take a cab. I don’t know what that man was smoking when he had me try to walk! The Boma started me off with a drink of the native beer, which was clear and tasted like vinegar with a dash of rubbing alcohol thrown in. Then you ate. I tried ostrich (not bad, much like sirloin steak), kudu steak (stingy and tough), and warthog. Let me tell you, warthogs might be ugly, but they sure are tasty! It was as tender as filet mignon and had a taste that a cross between a filet and chicken. I also tried the peanut butter rice, and I got a certificate for eating a fried worm which is a delicacy here. It was crunchy, but otherwise OK. Reminded me a little bit of escargot, but with a unique enough flavor to be different. After the Boma, I was stuffed, and was glad to get home.
The next morning, I had a typical breakfast of cereal, juice, coffee, eggs, and ham. We then went on the walking tour of the falls. Now is the time for me to talk about the Egyptians. For every activity, and on both my flights to and from Victoria Falls, there was a couple who I found out were from Egypt. I knew she was Muslim from the head scarf, and I figured the husband was some Middle Eastern businessman. Turns out he’s the trade attaché for Egypt to Zimbabwe. I wasn’t aware that Muslim wives were allowed to henpeck their husbands the way this lady henpecked her husband. She complained about everything. She didn’t want to walk far, she didn’t want to get wet, she didn’t like to wait, etc. One of the ubiquitous street vendors tried to sell her something for $80,000 Zim, and she laughed in his face and said, “I give only $10,000!” The guy backed down to $30K, and for a carving, that wasn’t a bad price. But she wouldn’t budge off the $10K offer, which is only $1.50 US. Then, at the falls (which are 2km wide), she refused to rent a rain coat for the mist. Well, the wind shifted, and she got all upset that the falls was making her get wet! I couldn’t believe it. I just wanted to ask what she expected visiting one of the largest WATERfalls in the world?!? The kicker was the sunset cruise where she apparently didn’t like the boat. It was a catamaran, which you would expect for a casual dinner cruise on the Zambezi River. I suppose she thought she would be aboard the Queen Mary II. She refused to get on, and her husband was ready to leave her ashore and make her wait for him. Just before the boat took off, she almost burst into tears and decided to board the ship. We applauded her courage. She and her husband also wanted an alligator skin. They thought someone would just shoot one in the river for them, I suppose. I don’t know if they ever got their skin. They certainly were memorable. The Egyptian guy, too, was whiter than I am. I found that to be funny to see a Middle Eastern guy from Egypt to be so light skinned. That’s what I get for having assumptions!
The falls were fantastic. I really do not have the proper words to describe them. They are huge and seem to go on forever when you are standing at one end. Any of the individual falls that make up Victoria Falls as a whole would be breathtaking. Together, they are simply amazing. I truly understand why people harped on me to go here before I left Zimbabwe, and why Vic Falls is one of the natural wonders of the world. I am so glad I got to see them. Once I am able to upload my pictures, hopefully you can get a glimpse of the majesty that is Victoria Falls. I’m afraid my camera, even with over 150 pictures taken, cannot quite capture it.
I also watched some fool bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge that links Zimbabwe with Zambia. I can’t imagine doing that, with my fear of freefalling. I would be paralyzed with fear; someone would have to go with me or push me. After the falls, we went to the “living village” which was nothing short of cheesy. It was not nearly as authentic as I hoped, and the guide who worked there rushed us through and then brazenly demanded tips like a beggar on the street. No sense of discretion AT ALL. I could have done without that tour, although seeing examples of native huts was interesting.
I convinced the tour driver to let me off at the Kingdom Lodge, where the Egyptians were staying, so I could explore downtown Victoria Falls. It was a cute tourist town, like any other you’d see in the world. I went through the 100 year old Victoria Falls Hotel which was fantastic. It certainly deserves its 4 stars, and I imagine is not far from a 5th one. It has an elegance that reminded me of many find resorts found in the US, especially in tropical areas. If I ever return here, I will definitely make plans to stay at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Failing that, I will stay at the Kingdom lodge, which is cute in a sort of African themed, Las Vegas way. I did manage to find another book to buy (although I later discovered the book I bought was not the one listed on the jacket cover!) and a T-shirt. I would have gotten my mom a T-shirt, but the only one I liked for her was $150,000 Zim, or about $25US. No way was I paying that!
The sunset cruise, or booze cruise, was nice. It was very peaceful sailing along the Zambezi River above the falls. I found out that the Zambezi is the 4th longest river in Africa. It comes after the Nile, Niger, and Congo rivers in length. We saw some hippos and an alligator. There was a nice gay couple from Athens who had fled the Olympics by going on a Southern Africa tour. Victoria Falls was their first stop. They were very funny, and it was nice to talk to “family”. The irony was especially thick when the Egyptians had the gay couple take pictures of them. It made me think about this guy would probably support imprisonment or death for these men for being gay, but had no qualms about asking their help. I think I polished off a bottle of Zimbabwean red wine (had no idea Zimbabwe had any vineyards!) on my own. It was very good, much like a merlot but without the typical bitter aftertaste of red wines. The sunset was perfect too. I think I captured it pretty well on my camera, as the sun slowly slid below the horizon in a red blaze of glory. It just what you’d expect an African sunset to be.
I went home and just went to sleep. I slept the whole night and got up in the morning for breakfast and to pack. The bus to take me to the airport was late by about 30 minutes. I was getting very nervous that they had forgotten me and that I’d miss my flight when they finally arrived. Again, there was little security at the airport, and I sat in coach. This woman next to me had her 7 year old sitting in her lap, which I could not believe the airlines allowed. That child needed his own seat. I talked with a Danish guy on the other side of me for part of the trip, and he was interesting. I exited from a different terminal than the one I had come into on Friday. This was a new terminal designed for domestic flights. I don’t think it was finished yet, which is why they still use the old hangar. I had to wait 20 minutes past 1pm for Eddie to arrive. He got me home though, and I was glad of it. I got to talk to Mom for a while on the phone when she called, and she wanted to come visit me next Sunday after I just got home. I nixed that idea. Last thing I’ll want next weekend is company.
Pet upgraded the TV satellite service, so I can switch channels on my own without regard to what they are watching. That was nice. They also put up new shower bars to hold towels and washcloths. Nice touch. Now if they just will get a new toilet that flushes properly!
Thursday, August 12, 2004
The Last Measles Partnership Call
Wednesday - August 10, 2004
When I got up this morning, I noticed that Pet and her family had returned from their journey to South Africa. In the middle of the night, I remember waking up to Smiley barking furiously at something, and it must have been them. Later, I found out they arrived at about 4am. Morris apparently got up around 7am and went to work too! I cannot imagine driving almost 12 hours, getting less than 3 hours of sleep, and heading to work.
After arriving at work, I sent out an email offering the books I've read for free to people I know here. Three of them went quickly. The Witness Protection Program book and the haunted house novel were not claimed. Shame! Someone will take them, though, because I am not carrying them back to the US.
Otherwise, the day was pretty slow. I gathered information for the measles partnership call (my last one!) and had to translate a very LONG update from West Africa into English. Thank goodness I have taken French in school. It makes life easier here to be able to at least understand the point of documents written in French. The call itself went well. I was alone for most of it, representing AFRO, but Balcha came in just in time to discuss some surveillance related topics. Soon, the call was complete, and I found myself finished with the main task of my time here! The weekly updates will go back to Casey next week.
Paola asked me over to her house for dinner again today. I think she knows I'm gay, but I can't shake the feeling she is asking me over for a date or something before I go. I'm probably imagining things, but I tend to listen to my gut in matters like this. I've turned her down twice for various reasons, but I could only put her off so long. I've agreed to come over for a light dinner next Tuesday. Hopefully, it will just be dinner and I will feel foolish for thinking she might have other…ideas.
The tickets didn't arrive today, which concerned me. I emailed Emma at Off2Africa, and she got back saying that she found cheaper tickets on the plane, so that was the delay. She was getting me a small refund. The tickets should be delivered tomorrow morning, and she will call when she sends the courier out. I'm pretty excited about my trip to Victoria Falls. I partially packed last night with the clothes I will need. It's just a weekend trip, so I'm not carrying much.
I hung out with Pet and her family last night. Pet and Morris both looked like death warmed over. Pet at least had been able to sleep in, but Morris was working on 3 hours of sleep. Pet didn't have a stitch of make up or anything. I felt bad for them! They bought a dual decoder for the satellite TV that knocked out service for a day. This will enable me to watch what I want in the cabin while they watch what they want in the house. It will be nice; pity it couldn't have been added earlier!
Turns out that Richard and I won't be able to take a vacation during the week he's off in September. It's STOP training, and everyone in the office is going to be out either on leave themselves or on official travel. It's likely to be just myself and Lisa Cairns in the office to support STOP from the measles side. Therefore, I must take one for the team and not make a fuss about a vacation. Hopefully it will buy me some "good employee" points! J I am bummed about not being able to take a vacation though. That will leave a week at Thanksgiving and then Christmas to take a vacation if we want. I'll have to see what Richard wants to do. On both holidays, we will upset family if we go off somewhere, but for my own sanity, I may need it. I haven't had a real vacation since going to NYC at New Year's, and anyone reading this journal knows that Zimbabwe is not exactly a vacation. You don't WORK on vacations! J He took the news pretty well when I called and said it wasn't a big deal. At least I still get that Friday off to go to the adoption seminar weekend we have planned. That was the last day of STOP, so it wasn't as big of a deal. I still wish we could have gone somewhere.
When I got up this morning, I noticed that Pet and her family had returned from their journey to South Africa. In the middle of the night, I remember waking up to Smiley barking furiously at something, and it must have been them. Later, I found out they arrived at about 4am. Morris apparently got up around 7am and went to work too! I cannot imagine driving almost 12 hours, getting less than 3 hours of sleep, and heading to work.
After arriving at work, I sent out an email offering the books I've read for free to people I know here. Three of them went quickly. The Witness Protection Program book and the haunted house novel were not claimed. Shame! Someone will take them, though, because I am not carrying them back to the US.
Otherwise, the day was pretty slow. I gathered information for the measles partnership call (my last one!) and had to translate a very LONG update from West Africa into English. Thank goodness I have taken French in school. It makes life easier here to be able to at least understand the point of documents written in French. The call itself went well. I was alone for most of it, representing AFRO, but Balcha came in just in time to discuss some surveillance related topics. Soon, the call was complete, and I found myself finished with the main task of my time here! The weekly updates will go back to Casey next week.
Paola asked me over to her house for dinner again today. I think she knows I'm gay, but I can't shake the feeling she is asking me over for a date or something before I go. I'm probably imagining things, but I tend to listen to my gut in matters like this. I've turned her down twice for various reasons, but I could only put her off so long. I've agreed to come over for a light dinner next Tuesday. Hopefully, it will just be dinner and I will feel foolish for thinking she might have other…ideas.
The tickets didn't arrive today, which concerned me. I emailed Emma at Off2Africa, and she got back saying that she found cheaper tickets on the plane, so that was the delay. She was getting me a small refund. The tickets should be delivered tomorrow morning, and she will call when she sends the courier out. I'm pretty excited about my trip to Victoria Falls. I partially packed last night with the clothes I will need. It's just a weekend trip, so I'm not carrying much.
I hung out with Pet and her family last night. Pet and Morris both looked like death warmed over. Pet at least had been able to sleep in, but Morris was working on 3 hours of sleep. Pet didn't have a stitch of make up or anything. I felt bad for them! They bought a dual decoder for the satellite TV that knocked out service for a day. This will enable me to watch what I want in the cabin while they watch what they want in the house. It will be nice; pity it couldn't have been added earlier!
Turns out that Richard and I won't be able to take a vacation during the week he's off in September. It's STOP training, and everyone in the office is going to be out either on leave themselves or on official travel. It's likely to be just myself and Lisa Cairns in the office to support STOP from the measles side. Therefore, I must take one for the team and not make a fuss about a vacation. Hopefully it will buy me some "good employee" points! J I am bummed about not being able to take a vacation though. That will leave a week at Thanksgiving and then Christmas to take a vacation if we want. I'll have to see what Richard wants to do. On both holidays, we will upset family if we go off somewhere, but for my own sanity, I may need it. I haven't had a real vacation since going to NYC at New Year's, and anyone reading this journal knows that Zimbabwe is not exactly a vacation. You don't WORK on vacations! J He took the news pretty well when I called and said it wasn't a big deal. At least I still get that Friday off to go to the adoption seminar weekend we have planned. That was the last day of STOP, so it wasn't as big of a deal. I still wish we could have gone somewhere.
Wednesday, August 11, 2004
Half Day!
Tuesday - August 10, 2004
Coming in to work was quick this morning since there was no traffic on the roads, since this was also a national holiday. When I got to the office, I discovered that the shared file server was down, but at least the Internet was not. I could at least work on catching up on my email and look at the newspaper online. Around noon, we got a forwarded email that the Regional Director for AFRO apparently sent us last week. However, since our communications were down, the message obviously was not delivered. It announced that not only were we to take Monday off, but that we'd get a half-day off on Tuesday in honor of Defense Forces Day! This meant I got to go home at 1pm!
Eddie took me home, and I basically bummed around all day. I got a little antsy in the evening, as I wanted something to do besides lay down and watch TV. I tried to order a pizza, but there were no drivers thanks to the holiday. Definitely wouldn't see that in America! Drivers work holidays, but they also get paid time and a half to do it. So it was a soup and rice night for me. That's fine. I don't really need the pizza, do I? J
Mom called and chatted with me for a while. It was good to talk to her. She sounds happier than she usually does, which is great. I hope it lasts. I had some trouble falling asleep, but I think that's because I've napped so much in the last few days. I was able to get a shower, which was nice.
Coming in to work was quick this morning since there was no traffic on the roads, since this was also a national holiday. When I got to the office, I discovered that the shared file server was down, but at least the Internet was not. I could at least work on catching up on my email and look at the newspaper online. Around noon, we got a forwarded email that the Regional Director for AFRO apparently sent us last week. However, since our communications were down, the message obviously was not delivered. It announced that not only were we to take Monday off, but that we'd get a half-day off on Tuesday in honor of Defense Forces Day! This meant I got to go home at 1pm!
Eddie took me home, and I basically bummed around all day. I got a little antsy in the evening, as I wanted something to do besides lay down and watch TV. I tried to order a pizza, but there were no drivers thanks to the holiday. Definitely wouldn't see that in America! Drivers work holidays, but they also get paid time and a half to do it. So it was a soup and rice night for me. That's fine. I don't really need the pizza, do I? J
Mom called and chatted with me for a while. It was good to talk to her. She sounds happier than she usually does, which is great. I hope it lasts. I had some trouble falling asleep, but I think that's because I've napped so much in the last few days. I was able to get a shower, which was nice.
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